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Afghans for Civil Society
806 N. Charles St., Baltimore, MD 21201 (410) 442-2682
30 Brattle St., Cambridge, MA 02138 (617) 576-7104
Nurzo Shah Bridge, Kandahar, Afghanistan + 93 (0) 70-28-4203
Notes from the Field, February 11, 2003
After an extended US visit, I
returned to Kandahar together with the rains: a steady, fine
drenching at night that would patter against the plastic sheeting
stretched over a new bed of carnations outside my window. Then the
morning would dawn fine, until the last day, when it poured from
dawn till dark, the clouds only lifting in time for a twilight run
out into the desert. So strange to see the streets of Kandahar
slick with mud like melted chocolate. The south hadn’t had rain
like that in five years. Overnight, tough little shoots were
dusting the folds in the desert clay with green.
Against the night-time cold, we
now have a simple wood-burning barrel stove set up in the sitting
room. And there’s a carpentry shop in the yard near the guards’
house. We had wood, and it proved cheaper to make the windows and
doors for Akokolacha in-house than buy them in the bazaar. So there
are plenty of shavings and odd pieces to burn in the mornings, as we
huddle over our hot milk and tea, and honey and walnuts from Kabul.
Women’s programs
One of the best pieces of news for Afghans for Civil Society
recently has been the arrival of Rangina Hamidi, a Kandahar native,
who, after her family fled the Soviet invasion, grew up in Pakistan
and the United States. She will be directing our women’s programs.
Rangina is one of the very few women members of the Afghan diaspora
brave enough to come back to assist the reconstruction process
outside Kabul. With her cultural penetration, her gentle way
tempered with a quiet solidity, Rangina will be an enormous asset to
ACS.
The income-generation project,
based on traditional Kandahari embroidery, exploded in my absence.
I came back to find the big yellow trunk in the office positively
overflowing with placemat and napkin sets, and material ready for
sewing into shirts with intricately-worked patterns around the
collars. We now have a total of 13 “centers,” homes where groups of
5 to 10 women – relatives, in-laws and neighbors – work on our
orders. Nasima and Salima, our two Afghan program officers, visit
each of the centers in turn, two or three a day.
On Rangina’s second day, I
joined them. We went to Chawni, a mud-brick neighborhood on the
Herat road leading out of town to the northwest. Open sewers flank
the alley-ways, but at least they’re cemented, not just runnels
scraped out of the hard ground as I’ve seen elsewhere. Houses are
built half underground for cool in the summer-time. One had a big
chicken coop on a raised platform above the courtyard, another a
black cow tied in a corner.
We sat drinking tea with one
family in the shade of their verandah, and I came to realize how
truly revolutionary this project is. It is the only one in the
region providing women with that absolutely essential implement:
money. And it is one of the few that approaches women in their
homes, the only place all but a handful can be reached. “The men
like your program,” said one husband. “It doesn’t break any rules.
The women do their work in the house.” And yet, all the women we
talked to that day said they do keep the money they earn, to spend
on their own needs or household necessities; they don’t have to turn
it over to their men-folk.
Through the meanders of our
conversation, we learned of the horrors of these women’s everyday
lives: one of the daughters-in-law, her pinched face darkened by
some skin affliction, had lost five children in seven pregnancies.
Each of the babies had died before the age of 1. The family blamed
vaccinations, and her rare trips to her father’s house. Her latest
baby was immobile and invisible as firewood in a corner, tied up in
swaddling clothes covered by a cloth.
Appalled, Rangina and I began
casting about for ways to build on the base of our embroidery
centers to expand the help we bring to these women. We started
simple: “What if we were to hold a party in your house, and invite
all the neighborhood women in for tea, and just talking?” we
wondered. Our hosts smiled nervously, glancing at each-other. “Ijaza
nista,” they finally said: “We wouldn’t have permission.” They
explained that only for weddings and funerals do they leave their
homes and gather with women outside their immediate family. The
husband concurred: “I know my wife’s father and brother,” he said.
“I don’t know her cousin or her uncle. She can’t go to their
houses. How could I let her go to a complete stranger’s?”
Rangina and I were silenced.
We came away even more convinced of the importance of our program,
and how crucial it is to work with women on a house-to-house basis.
Loya Jirga delegates
In a Policy Center project
funded by USAID, we have been holding focus group meetings with
delegates elected to last summer’s Loya Jirga, the grand
tribal council that selected the current transitional president of
Afghanistan. The idea is to have them reflect back on that
exercise, and recall what aspects of the process were good, and what
the disappointments were, so lessons could be drawn for planning the
next Loya Jirga.
What emerged from the
discussions with startling clarity was the sense of elective
responsibility felt by these delegates. “We wanted to be a bridge
between the people and the government,” said one, “to explain the
people’s needs to government and point out what the government is
doing wrong.” “But,” in another’s words, “we’ve been discarded like
old socks.” The disappointment at not playing a role in public life
after the Loya Jirga was acute. “We went to the governor
with the people’s wishes, but he never found time for us.” Now, the
delegates feel defeated: “We promised people we would help them, but
we had nothing to give them.” In Kandahar, they praised our meeting
as the only one of its kind – bringing together delegates across
tribal and political lines – to take place since the Loya Jirga.
The other emphatic message the
delegates conveyed was that the current Afghan government has failed
in not disarming the gunmen and commanders who hold sway throughout
the Afghan countryside. In fact, they all believe the Loya Jirga
actually made the warlords stronger. “Before the Loya Jirga,
the heart of Marshall Fahim (former Northern Alliance commander now
defense minister) was shaking with fear. Now he is strong.”
Most of these men and women are
tribal or community leaders. They are intimately linked with the
traditional structures of deliberative democracy that have governed
southern Afghan society over the years, and they enjoy the added
legitimacy of election as delegates of the people through a process
praised as remarkably free and democratic. They would constitute a
precious resource and foundation for building habits of citizen
participation in governmental action.
Akokolacha
Hallelujah! The final window
and the final door, constructed in our compound yard, have been hung
in Akokolacha. The project is complete. But from Salima and Nasima,
of our embroidery project, has come a jumbled story about how the
men of the village want to stop us from working with the women. The
problem, it seems, was that the village headman (“Datsun” Shir
Mahmad, known thus for his fraudulent purchase of a pick-up truck)
and his brother, a fairy book image of the Big Bad Wolf, weren’t
given a big enough house, or the new guest room they demanded. We
had to cancel a first shura, called to discuss the matter,
but which only the headman’s family attended. But what absolutely
knocked my socks off was the welcome we received. All those dirty,
wild, bratty, adorable kids came streaming up the road when they
heard the car: “Sarah rala, Sarah rala!!!” “Sarah
came back!!!” they shrieked, as I dropped out of the moving car and
hoisted each one up in the air in turn. The elders said the whole
gang of them had been waiting on the road all afternoon. Whispering
like church mice, they crept into the room where we sat awkwardly
with Datsun’s family, drinking the obligatory cup of tea. They
filled half the darkened room, whispering and edging closer to me by
turns, until Datsun shouted them away. In the doorway, just visible
in the night, were the figures of some of the women. I ducked in to
see them as we left, and the press of kisses, the laughing shouts of
welcome, the Heimlich maneuver performed over and over again by the
hefty lady who chased me around the yard to give me tea once, almost
brought tears to my eyes.
What further proof needed,
despite all the travails, that Akokolacha is a success. That –
quite apart from the houses – we have forged real bonds with the
villagers. That we exist for them as people, just as surely as
Wusila and her beautiful embroidery, or the little mute child who’s
always getting cuffed, or my tiny shy “son” with the great scar
across his scull, who smiles at me from behind his mother’s legs,
but runs away shrieking with panic whenever I go near him, exist for
me, and have become an irrevocable part of me. |